Monsoon special edition: The Forgotten Capital | Islamnagar | Bhopal

A complicated past, a range of emotions, and a rich history – explore the City of Islam aka Islamnagar with Kurious Kannya as your guide.

Chaman Mahal

Rani Mahal

Located about 11 kilometers from the city core, the historical ruins of Islamnagar are often overlooked by most of us visiting or residing in Bhopal as we are unaware and oblivious of this magnificent architectural entity.

Our 5^th semester was on the go when we were introduced to our new site for the semester design project based on inclusive architecture focussing on making heritage sites accessible to all. With cameras ready and a few googled images in mind, there we were, a batch of 75 architecture students waiting with burning curiosity. As we entered through the fortification contrasting through the grassy farmlands we found ourselves standing before the arched iron gates that gave us a glimpse of the wonders it held inside.

Lost in the sands of time – the history of Islamnagar

A small village, Jagdishpur came to be known in full glory as Islamnagar the capital of the princely state of Bhopal after being captured by Dost Mohammed Khan, a commander in the Mughal army amongst all the chaos after the fall of Emperor Aurangzeb. Helping the Gond queen Kamlapati, upon her request after the murder of her husband, Dost was awarded with a village and token of wealth as an honour. The death of Kamlapati gave Dost an opportunity to capture and take over her kingdom and establish his rule. Thus came Islamnagar, a complex with heavy fortifications and two grand palaces, Rani Mahal and Chaman Mahal as additions to the existing Gond Mahal.

Present day scenario

Gond Mahal – the jewel of Jagdishpur

The oldest and the most dilapidated of all the structures, the Gond Mahal, an amalgamation of Gond and Malwa architectural styles stands facing east with a towering bastion at the entrance. Descending through the narrow staircase we stepped onto the open to sky courtyard surrounded by arched verandahs on three sides. We navigated our way around the residential rooms and headed to the third floor of the three storeyed building via a rather intimidating and dark staircase. Coming out onto the terrace, the spectacular view of the entire compound rejoiced us and broke our realisation of the effects of time and negligence to this fort that was the cause of our sombre moods. The current state of the old fort confirmed the need for inclusive measures, that would allow everyone to access it and thus renew its original magnificence. 

Rani Mahal – the zenana complex

The perspective view of the Rani Mahal as we walked up the ramp re-emphasised the architectural importance of the Mughal heritage. An open to sky courtyard marked as an entry into the residential complex for the begums. Heading inside, the Baradari structure with the twelve multifoil arched openings supported by voluted columns profusely ornamented with floral motifs. Giant steps with a unique spiral balustrade carved out of monolithic stone led us to the garden courtyard. With a little anticipation we guided each other through the dark labyrinth like interconnected passages and rooms all over the triple storeyed structure with deep arches on the first floor had plenty of space to accommodate rooms. Niches covered by intricate jali pattern influenced by the Mughal style that once flooded the mahal with warm light from lanterns and diyas, and enhanced its beauty were now abandoned. We continued our upward journey picturing the life of grandeur that the walls, the steps, the very fabric of this structure once possessed.  The third floor was entirely made of terrace spaces with low parapets offering brilliant views of startling green trees, grass, and moss merging so organically with hardset and precise stonework. The few rooms on this floor were capped by the eye catching Bangaldari Chattris. The entire compound was raised on a high plinth a salient feature of Malwa architecture.

Chaman Mahal – the symmetrical beauty

The most lavish and vastly spread Mahal. Embellished with the famous geometric, precise and symmetric Chahar bagh, with its fountains and water channels and the traditional sloped roofs over the structures that surround it give a complete blend of Mughal and Malwa form of architecture. The only standing red sandstone structure was in sync with the complimenting lush surroundings. Elongated columns and arches were engraved with sumptuous floral motifs. A well to do Turkish bath known as hamam was present in the premises, but wasn’t filled on the day of our visit. Sheesh mahal boldly stands to display to its visitors the rich history of its ancestors through various pictures and paintings that take us back to the ancient era.

The historical capital hidden in the complexities of it’s smart ever growing city, Islamnagar calls for us all to rewind, remember, respect and relive the bygone era. Our culture and traditions, the heritage left to us by our ancestors are the true strongholds of belief.  Preserving and contributing to our heritage is what keeps our sense of belongingness intact. 

As its known, every architecture is incomplete without people, Kurious kannya hopes to give this gem its deserved glory by spreading the word to all of you out there.

Kurious kannya knows

Timing: 10am - 5pm

Highlights: Perfect photography point, well equipped canteen, parking space in the premises, Additional facilities like guide, picnic gazebos, washrooms.

Recommendation: Carry your picnic baskets and charge your cameras.